I use Photoshop as little as I can, I would much prefer to get a photo right in camera so I'm not investing time with every single graphic. The majority of my pictures have been shot on average half an hour.
A shot shot at mid day, may be affected by harsh and high sunshine. To overcome this I placed my model in the shadows produced by the branches of a large palm tree. I set up a sizable California Sun-bounce Gold and Silver Zebra reflector out in the direct sunshine reflecting soft warm light on the front of my model.
I got a light reading from the models face and shot with shutter speed of 1250s aperture of f2.8 at 400 ISO. White balance set up to daytime.
This image had been shot in my D2H with a 24mm to be able to 70mm f2,8 Nikon lens, focal duration set at 42mm, 1.4 mtrs away from my personal model to emphasize her arms and legs also and then we had a excellent connection regarding creating excellent energy and directing.
Notice my own lens/eye level is within the middle of her torso, this is very important when shooting wide perspective and close to the subject to steer clear of distortion, for instance if you blast to high up your models head is going to be big and her legs may be like they are quick like a chicken and visa versa therefore its vital that you get your eye/camera lens level at the right just the height to avoid distortion,
I will often shoot from your lower angle, particularly if I am trying to emphasize the gap of a versions legs for hosiery pictures.
To keep heaven as blue as possible I chance with a polarizing filtration system on my lens, considering the west of the actual midday sunlight. This is how you retain the sea and the sky blue as well as making my personal models skin/tan look nice an smooth by removing some of the specular reflections on her skin.
If I had been capturing facing much more to the east the skies and the ocean would have been far more burned out there..
When I began shooting digital I stood a lot of problems because I attempted to shoot digital exactly as I shot motion picture. Now when I am shooting, I will always under expose from the meter studying, this is done for a couple of of reasons, to be able to saturate color as well as to make sure I am not really loosing my high lighting. Obviously my images are going to be a little about the dark side however I can easily appropriate for this by using a little s curve within Photoshop to start the particular retouching process.
I constantly shoot raw files and a small jpg, why I will explain inside another Tiny Gem.
I process my raw file as shot in camera raw from Bridge and open all of them in Photoshop. (Raw files have a great deal more latitude re image info and will result in much better quality pictures).
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